Buenos Aires

Hey all,

Right.If I can remember correctly I left off with our stay in Iguazu Falls.Which was AWESOME.Well worth the travelling time etc etc.The pix speak for themselves I think.Anyway, our next stop was Buenos Aires, the port capital of this fantastic country.But first we had to get there.
This required a bus ride.But no ordinary, hour long commute into the city centre from whatever suburb of Dublin you call home.NO, this was a wee bit longer...
Twenty two hours, to be exact.BUT!This is Argentina, where they have a very, very different transport system to the one we experienced in Brazil.They have well paved highways for example.But fortunately for us, the biggest and best difference was the quality of the long distance coaches.We splashed out (the exchange rate at the moment is very good, about 4.5 Arg pesoes to the euro- another reason I love this counry!) and went for the cama total, or the fully reclinable, leather lined, wide as a fat American´s ass seats.These things were luxury!On a scale unknown in Brazil, anyway.Included for the 200 or so pesoes were individual flatscreen tv´s, full drinks service, full dinner and breakfast service, pillow and blanket , air con, etc etc.Nice!Just the thing to spend all those ass numbing hours on the road.Perhaps the films were crap, the food not too much better than airline food, and we did have to watch a fellow passenger spill her guts for next to an hour, but these things still couldn´t dampen our enthusiasm for such comforts.
Anyway, arrived in BA about 7 in the morning.First impressions at that early hour were of a large, grey city of no more or less colour than any other capital in SA (or Europe to be fair).However, once we located the nearby metro and found our sleepy selves to our accommodation in the heart of San Telmo (the tango mecca for travelers) we perked up a bit.Seeing as it was sunday we were urged by our friendly hostel guide to make a dash to the nearby antiques market for a bit of sightseeing and haggling, as its only open on the weekend.We refused and went to bed.For a few hours anyway.Once refeshed from a few hours extra kip and a much needed shower we did head down that way to the usual fare; stalls both indoor and outdoor, hawking wares such as the ubiquitus leather caps, belts and wallets that Argentina is famous for (this is, after all, prime cow country), the cup shaped gourds with which the Argentines continually swig their much-beloved mate tea from (the yerba, as its called, is a green weed that apparently has effects much like caffeine - not too bad actually) and all the usual traditional fare that one finds in such countries.Down winding streets bathed in the afternoon sunlight we strolled, finding yet more stalls, hordes of bustling tourists and locals all accompanied by the sound of local musos playing their guitars and accordions.
That was day one.Days two and three saw us catch the major sights that you have to see because they´re there, regardless of your own personal preference.So, we took in the Obelsico, the Plaza de Mayo, the Congresso building, all manner of fountains and statues.Nice, but not so different from any major capital city.BA is surpisingly European in its architecture, or maybe not so much, as it was founded and developed by the Spanish and Italians way back when.In fact, most of the food on offer is distinctly Italian, with pizzas and pasta dishes EVERYWHERE!NIce for a day or two, but SO unhealthy.The other main dish is, of course, steak.Mmmm.SO tasty!Rightly famous and served in portions to frighten even the most ardent fan of hard core beef.Definitely to be tried either way.
We also managed to take in a morning in the Recoleta, Ba´s main tourist attraction and surprisingly, free of charge.This attraction is a high walled cemetary in the heart of the swankiest area in uptown BA, home to the bones of some of Argentina´s most famous rich and celebrated.We found it relatively deserted, and had ample time to take in a multitude of lavishly ornate and monstrously overwrought sarcophagi.Statues of angels, cherubim, soldiers, and even dogs adorn these impressive tombs, and of course crucifixes of all shapes and sizes complement these immense structures.The site is dotted with some well kept fountains and many verdant trees providing plenty of shade to sit in and contemplate the mysteries of Life (and Death).Tombs of every shape, size and design are to be found here - from the simple, squarish blocks of granite to towering pillars recalling ancient Rome or Greece.There´s even a pyramid of sorts.It really has to be seen.A definite list tick-off!
After spending the rest of our second day catching up on sleep and just lazing about the hostel, we left it to the third and final day to see what most will instinctively associate with the city of BA - the sensual, flamboyant and distinctively erotic Tango.Of course, such a show is best seen at night, so we lazed away another sunny day at the green parks of Palermo, just sitting at cafes sipping Cokes and watching the locals (portenos, so called ´Port People¨) jog, roller blade and stroll by.Nothing more could entice us at this stage...We were planning on a 3 hr tango lesson followed by a show but we went for the whole package in the end, just to save time and hassle.Tango lesson, 3 course meal with free drinks (alcoholic and non) and a show lasting just over and hour, detailing the evolution of this reknowned dance over the course of five periods.Well, let it be known that I, as an Irish straight male, do NOT dance.Unless drunk or very. very happy.Or both.So, the first part of this package was, for me, as appealing as it was daunting.Not knowing quite what to expect, we got picked up by a transfer bus at about 7 in the evening.Following a few more pick ups, mostly couples from England or Ireland, we were dropped off at a local dance hall, or milonga.Greeted on arrival by the instructor, a young porteno woman with good english and a sense of humour, we were quickly ushered into the hall.And the lesson began.With gusto!
We were quickly shown the basic moves, how the man holds and leads the woman, guiding her movements with his chest out in the typically arrogant manner of the Tango dancer.Next was the basic 4 step - back, left, forward, feet together.Then the 8 step.And so on.All to the sounds of the traditional tango songs, and all in time (in theory).We had the fun of switching partners every few mins, so not only do you embarress yourself in front of your partner, you get to do it with any number of strangers who happen to be nearby.Anyway, suffice it say, it WAS fun, it wasn´t too hard, everyone had a laugh and we all even learned a bit.Maybe with practise.Maybe...
Well, that ordeal over, we all headed up to the main hall, for, in my opinion, the main event.Not the show - the dinner!Heh, and it was SWEET!Well worth the money we had paid.Starter of carne empanada, a beef pastry common in Argentina, followed by a WHOPPER of a steak about 2 inches think and the size of, oh, I dunno, Donegal!Needless to say I finished both, but not without a serious effort of will (Janelle managed half).Then a dessert of ice cream or something, I´m not sure.Anyway, fully satisfied and nicely mellowed with the beer they poured (it comes in one litre bottles and they leave it at your table in an ice bucket, like wine) we sat back and awaited the Tango!
Hmmm...how can I really, truly describe the scene?I probably can´t, but just imagine 3 pairs of impossibly well tailored dancers, the men in suits, the ladies in all manner of tight dresses, doing all manner of moves to a live house band.Lights flashing, dry ice smoking, music beating out and limbs akimbo....You get the picture...Very impressive, very professional, very sexy.The ladies were dancing between the tables at one stage and took some of the men up to play with...I was one of the lucky ones!!Hehe.Got a nice pic to prove it too.Anyway.It was cool, wicked, amazing.Better than expected, and in a city where every hotel and hostel offer similar packages, it really stood out.Or so I´d believe anyway.Bottom line - if you´re in BA, catch a show!
So, that was BA.We checked out the next day and waved goodbye to a city I had no expectation to enjoy, but did so immensely.Worth it!Pity our flight down to Patagonia wasn´t as enjoyable.Lets just say we made a majorly stupid, rookie mistake and didn´t check our flight plans properly.And Buenos Aires has TWO airports......