Feb 2009

In 1572, nearly 40 years after the fall of Cuzco, there remained but one threat to the Spanish domination of the Inca Empire and Peru.The last surviving Incan Emperor, Tupac Amaru, had fled into hiding with a select few of his supporters to a remote outpost in the Peruvian jungle known as Vilcabamba.Its location was such that several attempts on behalf of the Spanish to find it had gone unsuccessful as it was rumoured to lie in an area of thick, impenetrable jungle that was nigh on impossible to reach.Tupac Amaru's existence was a constant reminder of the failure to successfully obliterate all traces of the old Inca Empire which the new viceroy of Peru, Francisco Toledo, found intolerable.He determined to capture Amaru and put an end to Incan resistance once and for all.On 14th April he declared war on the fugitive Inca and sent an army out from Cuzco to find the location of Vilcabamba.Surprisingly they were successful, although they found the refuge deserted, the Inca and his people having left only the day before. The soldiers gave chase through the jungle and managed to track down capture Amaru and bring him back to Cuzco for a summary trial.He was sentenced to death and hanged, thus bringing to a close the era of Inca rule for ever.

Vilcabamba was eventually forgotten in the mists of time.Its location once again became a mystery but it's role in the history of the Incas ensured it an importance in the eyes of scholars to whom pre Columbian history was a specialty.One such man was Hiram Bingham, an historian who lectured at Yale university.After some time spent in Chile and Peru, he returned in 1911 to man a more co-ordinated attempt to locate 'lost ' cities of the Incas, including Vilcabamba.He was incredibly fortuitous and with the help of several locals living in the area, discovered quite a few overgrown ruins of Incan origin.

But it wasn't until a local 11 year old Quechan boy led him up some steep steps to a certain ridge high above the Urubamba river that he made what was to be the discovery of his lifetime.Located in an incredibly scenic setting above the valley floor against a backdrop of the surrounding green mountain range was a complete stone city of incomparable beauty.Bingham had just discovered Machu Picchu, but at the time was convinced he had found Vilcabamba.Incredibly he didn't linger, taking only basic measurements as he had no formal archeological training.He left soon after though he returned in 1912 and again in 1915 with the support of the National Geographic Society to continue excavation and later published his findings in his book " The Lost Cities of the Incas".The publication made him famous and pushed Peru and Machu Picchu to the front of every adventurous travelers wishlist.

And there they stayed.To this day, Machu Picchu is Peru's number one tourist attraction and the acknowledged highpoint of the Gringo Trail.Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 along with Cuzco, its allure has only increased since its 'discovery' in 1911 (there are disputes over whether Bingham was actually the first to find it).In 2003 it attracted a record 400,000 visitors keen to walk in the footsteps of the Incas and there are no signs these numbers are dropping off.To limit damage to the site numbers are strictly controlled and visas to walk the Inca Trail are restricted to 500 per day, including guides and porters.Our visas had been booked months before and we were finally packed, paid up and ready to go.

Except that we weren't.My sudden fever the previous day hadn't abated at all during the night.If anything, it had intensified.I dragged myself out of bed at 5am and had serious doubts over my ability to walk to the front door, let alone hike the Inca Trail.I sucked it up and jumped into our transport driven by our guide, Jimmy (who swears he's no Irish in him) and drove the hour and a half journey to Ollantaytambo where we picked up some last minute supplies and the porters and cook.We drove on to the real start of the Trail, an area known as Kilometre 82.By this stage I was feeling a bit better after washing down antibiotics with some coca tea.

We had our passports and visas verified in the registration office while our porters went to check in the gear.Due to some unscrupulous companies overloading their staff in recent years, all porters are now legally required to weigh in their loads, 20 kgs being the individual limit.We crossed the raging Urubamba river on a short suspension bridge and climbed up some steep, rocky steps.We were now officially on the Inca Trail!The weather was hot and humid and the sun scorched our backs as we climbed steadily upward through thickets of dried cactii.The path Bingham had taken to reach Machu Picchu years before was no longer used; instead it was the grounds for a railway line that connected Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, the small town nearest the ruins.The first class train that carried rich tourists direct to Machu Picchu was named in his honour and even now it blasted out steam as it thundered past us on the far side of the valley.Normally we'd be taking this same route back but due to the proposed rail strike this was looking unlikely.

The classic Inca Trail covers a distance of 33kms from its beginning at KM82 to its final destination of Machu Picchu.The path follows a winding and circuitous route that climbs steeply up forested mountains, over clouded passes, through deep valleys and along cool riverbeds.Every step is an unforgettable experience among some of the finest scenery Peru has to offer.Along the way are numerous lesser known ruins that would be world class attractions anywhere else, but here are merely interesting preludes to the 'lost city'.Each night we would camp at pre designated spots along the trail, in tents set up for us beforehand by our accomodating porters, whilst our talented cook would prepare delicious spreads at every mealtime.It seemed ideal.

As we walked our guide Jimmy explained a bit about the history of the Incas.He was an excellent guide, spoke perfect English and had a good sense of humour.Every now and then porters from other companies would jog past us, overburdened with enormous baggage and sweating in the dry heat.It looked like a tough job and I didn't envy them.We stopped for lunch after a few hours hiking and enjoyed a three course prepared with professional efficiency.Moving on we picked out the first of the Inca ruins, Llactapata; an ancient stone city built right into the back of a mountain on the far side of the valley.Its an impressive first display of the well constructed stone terraces the Inca are famous for, simultaneously providing arable land in a mountainous region aswell as acting as an natural defense.The ruins seemto be in amazingly good repair, even from this distance.

I wasn't able to admire them too long however.By this stage I was beginning to feel seriously run down.The antibiotics had worn off long ago and I was definitely struggling.As the day wore on I became progressively weaker and by the time we reached camp I was completely and utterly exhausted.I slept right through the night and by morning it was clear I was in no fit shape to continue.Reluctantly we made the decision to go back in order to get me to a doctor.We pushed on back that way we'd just come, me stumbling along among the rocky trail and finding it harder and harder to continue in the burning sun.At one stage we considered hiring horses from the locals to carry me down.We made it back, eventually, though it took every last ounce of energy I had.Later in Cuzco I'd learn I had a serious case of salmonella aswell as being infected with Giardia parasites, a real nasty combination.

We reached civilisation in the form of Ollantaytambo and scoured around for a doctor, but this being sunday there was none available.Janelle went off to acquire drugs of any sort, while I checked into the nearest available hostel and crawled straight into bed.Luckily by that evening I was feeling marginally better and we decided to risk the train ride straight to Machu Picchu, seeing as hiking the Inca Trail was out.We still had our passes and damn it if we weren't going to use them!Fortune smiled on us and we managed to procure some of the last remaining train tickets for the next morning, although they cost us the proverbial arm and a leg.At this stage though, we probably would have paid any amount.To come to Peru and NOT see its most famous site was simply out of the question!

We left the next morning on the 6.45am train.The sun was bright, the weather was clear and I was feeling relatively energetic.The train ride was surprisingly pleasant, with onboard service and a semi transparent roof to provide better views of the valley.The line runs straight through several tunnels carved straight out of the rock and follows the Urubamba river closely for most of the journey.Several terraced ruins built into the valley walls were visible along the way providing some entertainment.Pulling into the station at Aguas Calientes, we hopped off and rushed to the queue for the minibuses that take you up the steep road to Machu Picchu.Our last minute tickets meant that we'd have to return sooner than we would've liked, so we had only four or so hours to enjoy the experience.We climbed into the packed minibus with all the other lazy tourists and set off.

Arriving at the top of the steep dirt road that leads to Machu Picchu is akin to going to Disneyland or the World Cup.The excitement at being near such a mystical and world famous site is tangible.We pulled into the small parking lot and leaped off the bus in our enthusiasm, ignoring the theme park atmosphere outsite and rushed through the gates.The drive up had teased us with maddening glimpses yet it was only once at the top could we truly appreciate the incredible scenery of such a location.Even if these Inca ruins had not been present the view alone surely would have generated visitors by the truckload.Surrounded by heavily forested mountains on every side and shrouded in a near constant veil of mist, the ridge that supports Machu Picchu looks like some celestial place of worship (and may well be).The Incas could hardly have chosen a more appropriate setting.

Pictures don't do it justice and words can barely begin to describe it (though I'll try regardless).Beautiful is too lame.Breathtaking too obvious.Awe inspiring barely covers it.Majestic.Monumental.Stunning.Sublime.All these adjectives taken together and blended to create the ultimate accolade might give you an idea.Despite the overwhelming feeling of deja vu, Machu Picchu delivers on every level.It isn't just another humdrum ruin to visit and tick off your list.Nor is it a sight meant to be rushed with barely a cursory photograph.It is an experience to savour, a world wonder to behold.Just gazing upon the splendor of such a sight is enough to send you into a state of deep contemplation of the type of world that was, and is, possible.Staring over the precipice into the valley below you can just imagine the Incas who once lived out their lives here, convinced they shared the same hallowed space as the deities they worshipped.It is almost enough to turn one religous.

Built sometime around 1460 AD, Machu Picchu stands at an altitude of 2,430 metres in the Urubamba valley.Some 80 kilometres northwest of Cuzco, its name in the Inca language of Quechua (which is still spoken in parts of Peru) roughly translates as 'Old Peak'.Officially discovered in 1911 by Bingham, it was one of the few Inca settlements of any size that was never sacked by the Spanish and is thus still in excellent condition.Since its discovery its exact purpose has been the subject of academic debate and at various stages it has been described as a defensive fort, a religious centre, a prison, an astonomical device and an estate of an Incan Emperor Pachacuti, the latter being the most widely held belief today.It is likely it served more than just one purpose however.It occupies a position of natural defense and is served by the numerous terraces that the Incas used to grow crops on.

Machu Picchu is comprised of many stone buildings in classic Inca style architecture.The Incas were justifiably regarded as being master stonemasons (even by the invading Spanish) and used a style of building that fit cut stone blocks together in tightly fitting patterns without the need for mortar.Their mastery was such that their buildings survived earthquakes intact while Spanish built dwellings would crumble.This would seem to be one of the main reasons for the remarkable condition of Machu Picchu as Bingham found it.As they had yet to discover the arch they used a trapezoidal shape when constructing windows, a hallmark of their unique style.The Incas were also masters of irrigation and used ingenious stone channels to ferry water from local springs, many of which are still in working order.

As a settlement, Machu Picchu was divided into three main zones; Sacred District, the Popular District to the south, and the District of the Priests and the Nobility.The Sacred District contains the most impressive archeological sites.The Intihuatana stone was an important astronomical device that pointed directly at the sun during the winter solstice and allowed for precise calenderial measurements - an essential method for anticipating the seasons in a society that depended greatly on agriculture.The Temple of the Sun, used to worship the sun god, Inti, is a curved, tapering tower that contains some impressive stonework while the Temple of the Three Windows gives a splendid view over the main plaza below.There is also a huge rock that is carved in the likeness of a condors head, with the natural rock behind it resembling the bird's outstretched wings, apparently the site of occasional sacrifice.

Wandering around the stone buildings and temples of Machu Picchu is an overwhelming experience that is not spoiled one bit by the crowds of tourists.It is spread over such a wide area in such a unique setting that it is easy to find yourself alone among the many ruins and still enjoy the relative silence.Climbing up the steep steps to a lone thatched hut we caught our breath and stood in awe at the scene before us; the view that every single photographer simply has to capture and the one that is found in 90% of all postcards.An exquisite panoramic of the ruins, with the remarkably green plaza in centre surrounded by the stone huts, temples and stairways that climb off in every direction, with terraces on either side that just fall away into the abyss, all backed by the sheer green precipice of Wayna Picchu, itself covered in wisps of cloud.We dutifully took our own pics and continued on down into the ruins themselves, eavesdropping on the guides of other groups for lack of our own.

Before too long however, our time was up.Our train was due to leave soon and we had no choice but to leave with it.In all honesty I wasn't too pushed about leaving early as my fever was beginning to reassert itself and my energy levels were flagging.We took one last lingering look, bade our farewells and made our way back to Aguas Calientes.From there we hopped on the train and were soon in Ollantaytambo, where we caught a taxi that took us back to Cuzco.We may have missed the once-in-a-lifetime experience of hiking the Inca Trail, but seeing Machu Picchu with our own eyes was recompense enough.I'll take the memory of that any day.

With the experience of the Death Road still fresh in our minds we packed up and once more hit the road.Our destination was Peru, arguably the most popular country in South America for a myriad of reasons and the assured highlight of our entire trip.It is a travellers paradise that caters to every impulse within a landscape that is as varied as any in South America.From roaming the dessicated deserts of Nazca in search of its famous petroglyphs to hiking in the canyon country that is Arequipa; enjoying the many cosmopolitan delights of capital Lima to revelling in the sheer sublime beauty of Lake Titicaca; to climbing in the sheer mountain ranges of the Cordilleras or boating lazily downriver in the lowlands of the Peruvian Amazon; Peru really has it all.Nowhere in South America will you find such a diversity of landscapes, people or activities.
But it is its ancient capital of Cuzco that draws visitors first and foremost.Cuzco had been the seat of ancient Incan rule up until its sacking during the Spanish conquest and still contains many relics of its bloody and tumultuous history.These alone would have made Cuzco a must see for any self respecting backpacker but there is one reason above all that guarantees it an essential place on the Gringo Trail checklist: its proximity to Machu Picchu.The 'lost' city of the Incas and one of the most famous and well preserved archeological sites in the world.For many tourists a chance to wander among its many ruined buildings in such a famously scenic setting is reason enough to come to Peru. Every Gringo worth his salt was either setting off to see it or just getting back.
We, of course, were only setting out.La Paz, Bolivia to Cuzco, Peru is about a 14 hour bus ride but we were making a quick stopover in the large town of Puno, itself a popular backpacker destination.Its position on the main highway to Cuzco ensures it receives its fair share of visitors but Puno's popularity mainly stems from its setting on picturesque Lake Titicaca.At an altitude of 3,812 m Titicaca is South America's highest navigable lake and with an area of 8,372 km2 is also its largest.The lake is shared almost equally between Bolivia and Peru and can be visited from either side of the border, Puno being the preferred point of entry from the Peruvian side.
The reason for this are the incredible floating reed islands of Uros.The high point of any trip to Titicaca, these artificial islands are woven together from the totora reeds that grow in abundance in the lakes waters.The people who live there have done so for hundreds of years and originally built them as an original method of defense.Now they let the public come over and marvel at their unique way of life in exchange for small gifts of fruits and bread.Most of the tours to the islands leave from Puno and we planned to make a quick day trip to see them on the way to our eventual destination of Cuzco.
And so we left La Paz in high spirits, bidding a fond farewell to the lofty capital that had unexpectedly become our favourite city so far.The bus took us over some impressively high and rugged terrain and before too long we reached the border crossing at Desaguadero.After some confusing border formalities we finally had our passports stamped and entered the country.We were now in Peru!We found our connecting bus amidst the chaos and after another few hours reached Puno in late afternoon.During the journey we'd learned of an ongoing national dispute between farmers and the government that effectively closed the roads from Puno to Cuzco.It seems the government were trying to introduce reforms that would charge farmers for the water necessary for crop irrigation.The farmers were up in arms and reacted by erecting blockades on available routes to Cuzco and other major cities in the hope they could force a change of policy.This sort of thing went on all the time in Peru apparently.
This was bad news for us; we had no choice but to in Cuzco by that weekend.The world famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu hiked by thousands each year is limited to 500 people per day, including guides and porters.This is done in an effort to maintain the Trail and not to let it become too overrun.What this translates to is that each hiker has to book his or her place on the Trail by way of a visa months in advance.We had booked ours before leaving Ireland and our start date was rapidly appraching.Miss it and we would lose our only chance to hike on one of the most famous trails on the planet, a trek that was said to be as impressive as its final destination.And since we'd already paid the expensive fee this was clearly not an option!
We quickly made a decision; skip Puno and Titicaca for now and head straight to Cuzco if possible.We'd be returning this way later anyhow and the priority was obviously seeing Cuzco and Machu Picchu.We checked every bus counter in the terminal before eventually finding one that sold us tickets.It was for a bus that night and due to the blockades it'd be taking a long circuitous route through the mountains that effectively doubled the journey time.However, we had second thoughts when I happened to read a horrific account of a bus accident that had occurrred only days before.A night bus traveling from Cuzco to Puno had veered off the road and crashed when the driver had fallen asleep at the wheel.More than thirty people had been seriously injured and a young German backpacker had been killed.The article concluded with a severe warning against traveling at night when these sorts of incidents were more likely to occur.
Bus crashes in Peru are unfortunately not rare.In fact, they're very much a fact of life here and we'd already heard plenty of the horror stories.In a panic we cancelled our tickets and made arrangements for the next morning instead.After a fitful nights sleep we found our way back to the terminal and boarded our coach, very appreciative of the fact that we'd be travelling by day.Our coach took a winding path through small rural villages and over sparse mountain fields on a road that had long since ceased being paved.The journey was slow, boring and uncomfortable, with no tv or meal service, but we settled back into our seats just happy to on our way.
Just as we were enjoying a spectacular view of a lake filled mountain valley the coach shuddered to a stop.A huge tailback was right in front of us and from the look of it had been there some time.We got out and learned that the bridge ahead was blocked off and there was no way through.We spent a good two hours waiting around in frustration until the farmers finally relented and backed off.The road was cleared and the traffic started back up and continued on, only to be foiled once again by a much larger bridge that wasn't blocked off but completely burnt out!By this stage the Peruvian Army had come in to assist and erected a makeshift bridge that enabled vehicles to safely, but slowly, cross over.The scene was like something out of a Hollywood disaster movie, all spotlights and chaos!We waited another couple of hours for our coach to get its turn and by the time we were back on board the sun had well and truly set.We drove through the night and arrived in Cuzco well after 2 in the morning, waking our hostel manager up only to find out he had no record of our booking.After the long and tiring day we had just endured this didn't surprise us in the least but we convinced him to give us a room all the same.The traverse may have taken us more than 14 hours but we'd finally, thankfully, made it to Cuzco.
Cuzco was the capital of the once mighty Inca empire that ruled over much of Peru and even as far north as Ecuador and as far south as Bolivia and parts of Chile.Inspired by Cortez's recent success in Mexico, a Spanish expedition led by the tenacious Francisco Pizarro struck forth into the southern recesses of the Americas in search of fame and fortune.Their arrival happened to coincide with a civil war between the sons of the previous Incan Emperor, Huayna Capac, who were fighting for his title after his untimely death.Pizarro's small expedition took advantage of this state of civil unrest to penetrate deep inland where they were amazed by the Inca's advanced engineering skills they encountered, particulary their methods of crop irrigatation and their obvious mastery of stonemasonry.From interrogating the locals that they came across, the Spanish learned of the existence of the newly crowned Atahualpa and of his whereabouts in Cajamarca.Making contact with a messanger from the Inca, they arranged to meet in the town square.The Emperor arrived with some 7,000 unarmed soldiers in contrast to the 170 men that comprised the Spanish troop.In an audacious move probably brought about by sheer panic, the Spanish attacked and slaughtered many thousands of the Inca's soldiers before they could properly react and captured the Emperor.This unlikely outcome was due in part to the Spaniards' superior weaponry, including guns and cannons, near impenetrable armour and mounted horsemen (which the natives had never encountered before).
Holding the Emperor ransom the Spanish demanded unreasonable amounts of gold and silver, much of which was stripped from temples in the capital of Cuzco, some thousand miles away.Once the ransom was paid however, the Spanish saw Atahulapa as a dangerous liability and had him unceremoniously executed.They then marched on Cuzco, enlisting the service of Atahuapla's enemies and in a series of battles, took the city in 1533.Despite several spirited rebellions over the years, the Inca's never reclaimed their capital and with it, they lost their power and ultimately their way of life.Over the following years the Spanish systematically set about destroying any remnants of the Incan Empire, including any vestiges of their religion, which focused on worship of the sun god, Inti.Their conquest of Cuzco and eventually Peru virtually eradicated an entire Empire in less than a hundred years.
We put the lengthy journey behind us and spent the next day or two taking it easy and seeing the sights.Cuzco is quite a magnificent city to behold, once you ignore the constant hassle from the street vendors who throng the sidewalks.When Francisco Pizarro arrived he was stunned by the beauty and splendor all around him and wrote to the King that "it is so beautiful and has such fine buildings that it would even be remarkable in Spain".
Cuzco's history and charm is such that it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.Its archictecture is a bold mixture of Spanish style churches and narrow Incan streets that wind up into the hills surrounding it.The historic Plaza de Armas is the city's heart and its' picturesque setting is the home to the imposing Spanish built cathedral that dominates the area, while cafes and restaurants litter the remaining sides of the plaza.The cathedral was built on the site of an older Incan palace using blocks from nearby temples and forts.Much of the city was rebuilt by the Spanish in the same way, destroying in the process much of the original buildings although there are still some examples of the fine Incan stonework that remain intact, particulary the hugely impressive Inca walls along Loreta.We wandered through the narrow streets and up the many steep hills enjoying the sights; llamas being paraded around by girls in traditional costume; the artisans and painters working in the open air by their shopfronts; the many hidden niches that contain stall after stall selling the finest llama wool and ironic Peru T-shirts.Sure, its touristy, but its exciting nonetheless and we loved every minute of it.
Apart from the magnificent cathedral in the main square, Cuzco also boasts a wide array of historical buildings and museums that demand a visit.Among these are the Spanish built churches, including the adobe style Iglesia de San Blas whose pulpit is an astounding display of superior woodcarving; its creator's skull is said to reside in the top part.The museo Inka has great examples of Incan metal and gold work, pottery, textiles, mummies and more.They have a great replica of a Incan burial site complete with grisly bones and skulls that is more than a little creepy.
Also worth a view is the museo de Arte Religioso which contains an extensive collection of period paintings and fantastic woodcarvings from the colonial era, showcasing in particular the style of the Spanish conquistadors.
Our time spent exploring the city was pleasant enough, but, like every other Gringo that crowded into Cuzco, we had come primarily to see Machu Picchu and its a fact the locals are well aware of.Every second doorway you pass is draped in colourful advertisements for the Inca Trail while outside on the streets sellers push leaflets into your hands.But while the trip to Machu Picchu is the main event there are many other activities to spend your money on in and around the city.Rafting, mountain biking, horse riding and paragliding are all on offer while the surrounding countryside contains some splendid ruins that are also well worth visiting.We hired a taxi for the day to take us to the nearest few which included the sprawling fortess of Saqsaywaman (pronounced 'sexy woman'), an amazing example of the Inca's mastery of stonework with colossal walls made from gigantic interlocking stones.We also visited Q'enqo (zigzag) a large limestone rock riddled with niches and caves; Tambomachay, a ceremonial stone bath that still channels clear spring water; and Pukapukara, a commanding ruin with spectacular panoramic views of the valley.
As entertaining as these sights were we were eager to begin the trek.We'd met with the company rep that day to finalise the itinerary and pay off the remaining costs when she informed us apologetically that there was a small problem.While the Inca Trail is a tough four day hike from its starting point the return journey is a relaxing train ride from the small mountain town of Aguas Calientes (the town nearest MP) in the Sacred Valley back to Cuzco.This is included in the cost of the trek but yet again the Peruvians had scuppered our plans.Peru Rail, the company responsible for all rail travel in the country had just announced a strike in support of the farmers and it was due to start the day of our return.Typical!We discussed options and concluded the only choice was to go ahead with the trek and hope our guide could arrange some transport for the return.A little disheartened, we returned to our hostel to pack whereupon I began to feel suddenly feverish.Cursing my luck and my weakened immune system I popped some pills and crawled into bed to sweat it out, praying I'd have enough energy to begin the Inca Trail the next day.
Despite its charm and allure, Peru, I decided, was beginning to seriously piss me off.